I’ve wanted to visit Tierra del Fuego ever since hearing about it on a Frank Zappa album as a youth, and in 2023 I got my wish. Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, reminds me of Alaska, with snow-capped mountains rising from the water. Tierra de Fuego is an archipelago split between Argentina and Chile, and south of Ushuaia — across the Beagle Channel (named after Darwin’s ship) — lie many more islands, all the way down to Cape Horn and the beginning of the Drake Passage to Antarctica.
We hiked in Tierra del Fuego National Park and the Martial Mountains, drove out long dirt roads to Puerto Almanza braving the “cero control” checkpoints (anything other than zero alcohol blood content will land you in trouble), sailed the Beagle Channel, and enjoyed an incredible pairing dinner at Kalma Resto (with a cab home!).
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