Wild land, wild coast, wild waters, and people with a wry and irreverent style of naming places — for example, in the first photo below, Newfoundland’s highest, most beautiful waterfall is named Pissing Mare Falls; the magnificent fjord-like body of water below it is called a pond. Newfoundland also has its own cuisine: toutins with partridgeberry jam and scrunchions, poutine, cod cheeks, and cloudberry parfait. I asked the waitress what cloudberry tasted like. She said, “You really can’t describe it … people either like it or hate it.” I thought it was delicious. My son thought it tasted rotten. I can’t describe what it tasted like.

Yes, Newfoundland is a province in Canada. However, I found it so singularly impressive that I am awarding it its own category. We started with the Long Range Traverse — five days backpacking with just map and compass. The first photo below was our campsite on day one.

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